Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Happy New Year!!! A Look At Vogue Spring 2015 Vintage

Happy New Years to all my Sewingnistas

I wanted to get in a quick New Years greeting to everyone before January rolled out.  I hope everyone's year is filled with lots of love, excitement, joy, and of course,,,, Sewing.

I won't be able to do much sewing the next couple of weeks because I am on a down slope with my machines, which was something that started happening around August of last year.  However, even though the machines are down that doesn't mean that I'm down.

Not having my machines in good working order isn't going to slow me down from planning my future projects once I get my needles back.  So, I have been reviewing and looking at upcoming projects for a while and I was almost blown away this morning when the new Vogue Spring 2015 pattern line hit the screen.  I was in a state of Bliss with all the pretties that I saw.  I have thoroughly gone through the lineup and found many "Must Haves" during my scroll and decided to share my new obsessions list with you today.

1.  I wouldn't be true to myself if I didn't go for the Vintage looks first.  Vogue has been revamping their Vintage line for today's fashionistas for a while and within this collection for Spring 2015 they didn't miss a step.

Vogue 1435.  It is on a modern scale look, but I and a few other sewers know that Vintage dresses were seldom seen without some type of little jacket to top off a dress.  To me, this makes a dress and a look more complete.  This is why Vintage patterns are so appealing to me.
 This modern suiting is so fabulous and the color "Pumpkin" is so Springy.  The jacket is what caught my eye.  It's paired with a simple column shift dress.
 The jacket details are mesmerizing.  I could see this dress in a blue, yellow, red, or even a mixed looking pattern, but I'm going wild and taking the solid colors first.
 Stand up collar- not too sure about this on a jacket, but it's working for me.
 Shift- Doesn't have to be a slit in the front,,,put it where you want and the effect will still be the same.
 Back-  The back is about an inch to 2" longer than the front.  This is something that I do with just about all of my shift dresses.  It might be a "booty" thing or a conservative thing, but I like that it's already built in and I don't have to stress it.  Yeeeessss,,, this Pumpkin dress is on the top of my "ta do" list.

2.  Staying with the Vintage thing, I am choosing Vogue 9082.  This is another pattern that is driving me insane.  I must have this dress in my understated wardrobe.  Here's why.
 This one dress converts into 3 different looks.  The top jacket


 A 2nd top jacket
 And a really gorgeous tailored Sundress blended together will make 3 totally separate looks.
The more I look at this combo, the dizzier I get.  I have to say,,, You go Girl!!!  I can already see this dress in a myriad of colors and yet,,,, I am unable to graze a hem.  But, it ain't gonna last for long.  I'll be back and this pattern can see that it is at the top of my list, so fear me!

3.  Ok, my 3rd choice is so very Vintage until my composure is hard to hold.  I am totally in Wove with this pattern.

Vogue 9083.  This is the cutest thing I have seen in a long time.
 Ladies, Easter is around the corner.  This outfit would top off my Easter wish list fast and I'll take it in the same Lavender that is before me.  This dress doesn't need words because it has pictures.
 Yesssss! an interjection here because I am having a Sailor Moon moment with this mini collar/ jacket.

 Look,,, no jacket at all.  Date night never looked so sexy.
Thank you all for walking on the wild side with me and my Vogue Vintage fetish, but I'm not done.  I'll be back a little later with my POV on the rest of their Spring 2015 collection and a few from the other pattern companies.  My elation about these just couldn't wait.

While I'm at it,,, I must share a little blog time with you.  When I am on my down time I like to surf the web and get inspired.  It helps to keep my mind fluttering and the machines jumping.  But, I found this site and it is really giving me new life.  Shari William over at My Daily Threadz.  This lady not only has style, but she is full of talent and it shows.  Even though we share some of the same style fetishes, she is really rocking the stage.  So, stop by and say hello to a wonderful lady and seamstress.

Over to the right are a list of blogs that I love.  Take a moment to click though and to give some cheer while you get a little inspiration to get your mojo going.  As for me, I'll have lots of time to browse and do a few house chores that have been neglected.

Again, Thank you all for making my 2014 year so great and I wish all of you a most prosperous and fulfilling 2015!!!!!!!!

Lots Of Love And Plenty Of Hugs
Dellia

Sunday, December 21, 2014

McCall's 7016 Tutorial and Review

Hi

I know it's been a while since I was last on, but I came back today with a little something for the holidays.  The last few weeks have been filled with getting ready for Christmas and my schedule has been very,,,I mean Very,,,, busy.  

Santa's little helper has been finding stocking stuffers and gifts to make for everyone on this year's list, but before we can stuff the stockings I think we should have a quick tutorial for a fabulous dress that has been plaguing me since it hit the Winter collection at McCall's.  

I wasn't too primed about making a tutorial for this dress because I had never sewn it before, but I kind of wanted to see what it was like and take this walk with you as I made this particular project.  The project that I chose was McCall's 7016.  When I first saw the pattern, I was not in love with anything about it, but the more that I kept looking the more interesting it became to me.  I think the pink model on the cover was what actually turned my head and made me take more than a 2nd look.


When I took the pattern out, I couldn't seem to wrap my head around any color other than this pink (fuchsia, magenta,,etc).  So, I kept looking though my stash and nothing was going to please me, but a pink.  However, every color in the world was in my stash except for a pink that was this dark.  It seems to go with this year's pantone colors for 2014.  Needless to say,,,,,I went against the grain again and yet, came so close..LOL

So, let's start the tutorial with an estimate of  1 day.  It actually took me about 8 hours to make this dress, but I kind of changed my mind during mid-flow about hems.

First, you will need your pattern and all of your supplies in order to get started.  I chose a beautiful green Double Knit.  My threads were not really what I wanted them to be, but I came as close to matching color as possible because this was a hard color to match.  Following the instructions you want to cut out all your pieces and lay them out according to the layout guide.  I am making View C with the sleeves from View B/D(long sleeves).  Plus after looking at how short the skirt is, I will be adding and extra inch to the skirt.  The pattern calls for 2 1/4 yds for View C, but because I am adding the long sleeves and the extra 1" to the skirt, I will be using a total of 3 yds.  I will also be using a modified size Medium.  

To begin with I will state that step 1 was not used because I felt this step would be perfect for the blouse and yet useless if a serger was going to be used to complete the project.  So I am skipping this step.

STEP 2
 Stitch the front sections to the back section.
I used a 1.5 zig-zag stitch and a 2.0 stitch in other places.  I will try to point those areas out as we go.
After I stitched the 3 pieces together at the shoulder, I pressed the seams open.  I have been having problems with my serger, so this project is done almost completely with the straight stitch.

STEP 3

Staystitch the entire neck area.  This helps to keep the neck area from stretching.  I would say to use this step if you  are using a knit that is not as forgiving as a Double Knit or a medium/heavy weight knit elsewise, serge the neck area instead of staystiching.

STEP 4

The collar
Here you are suppose to have 4 pieces of collar.  On 1 set you want to place you interfacing on the wrong side.  I used a regular lightweight fusible interfacing.
STEP 5
Join the collar pieces together and press the seams open.  Be sure to remark any markings that you might rub off or disappear while working with your fabric. ( I had that happen and had to go back and redo).

STEP 6

With right sides of collar facing  each other pin the seams then the markings and then pin to fill in the spaces.  Begin seaming from the first marking on the outer edge of the collar and sew until you reach the other marker.  (take your time and for those who have a walking foot,, it's a good idea to use one) Don't go past the markers on the tip end of the collar,, explain later.
After I stitched the outer collar edge, I pressed then I flipped the collar to it's right side and pressed again.  Then I went back to do an understitch and trim.
 STEP 7

Turn collar to the right side then press and baste the raw edge (side with the pin) together.

STEP 8

Pin the collar to the neck with the interfacing side upward.  Here is where I will digress.  I thought the collar was going to be TOO big from the beginning.  I had originally made another collar piece to replace this one but decided against it.  With the interfacing going upward I felt that the stiffness from the collar would make me feel congested, so I just flipped mine to where the uninterfaced collar piece faced upward.  The collar still has the structure, but not the close stiffness of the original purpose.

Instead of basting the seams together, I serged the seams then pressed the going downward away from the collar.

STEP 9

Topstich neck edge.  This is the back of the collard with the seams meet.  I serged then pressed them down so that I could have this finish.   The serging process  helps to omit Step 10, but I ran the edge stitch all the way out to the end.
STEP 11

Lap the right fron over the left side front.
From the dots that are on the waistline to the bottom edge, stitch on both sides.  This will be the front of your garment completed.  I used a smaller allowance here because the 5/8' allowance would be used to for the side seams.  Here is where I would bast the 2 front pieces together at the bottom raw edge. 

STEP 12

Pin the front of your garment to the back.  Line up darts, markings, and stitch close.  At his point this is what you should have.

Now you can see the blouse for this pattern coming into shape.  If I were going to change my mind I think here is where I would really start.  For the sleeveless blouse/ dress Step 17 shows how to finish the sleeveless look, but I chose long sleeves.  So, forging ahead....

STEP 13

The Sleeves.
Since I chose the long sleeves. I will  show those.  There were options in this pattern for 3/4, sleeveless, and long sleeves.  With a little effort short sleeves could also be used, but weren't included in this pattern. 

Easestitch 2 rows from 1 marking (the beginning) to the the other (the end, sewing past the middle marking).
 Join the sides of the sleeves together, matching notches.  Seam the edges.
STEP 14 /STEP 15
If you choose to do the blouse I would continue with Step 15 and hem the sleeves.  Since I could not make my mind up on how I wanted to finish my hems, I hemmed sleeves and skirt last., but here's Step 15.

Decide on the length that you want then mark off for your hem.  Check both front and back.
Looks good at a 1" hem.  I didn't use a double needle because as the dress began to come together I wanted a smooth finish and the double needle didn't appeal to me personally.  So I continued to with a 2.0 stitch for the sleeve hem.

STEP 16
With right sides together pin sleeve into arm opening.  Match seam and notches, pin then gently pull easestitch and match dots from sleeve to the dots on the main garment piece.  Stitch pieces together then press the allowance toward the sleeve.  When you're done it should look something like this.
If you don't like the way your shoulder cap looks some readjusting might be in order.

At this point the blouse would be almost done.  A hem to the bottom would be next Step 18, but this is not our ending and we will continue to Step 19.

Step 19

The Skirt

I decided to add an extra inch to my skirt because I felt that the pattern's skirt was going to be a little too short.  Now looking back I think that with a pair of tights, a short skirt wouldn't be so bad (hint for the younger ladies).  Even though I added to the length I still think that I will be cutting it a little close..LOL.


So, we will pin the skirt sides together.  Then seam both sides.
Once you complete the seams press the allowance open.
STEP 20
Staystitch the waist edge of the skirt.  If you want to hem your skirt now you can because once you connect it to the top the "bulky" effect steps in.  I didn't do Step 21 here.
STEP 22

Connect the skirt to the top.  Match seams and notches first.  Then pin the rest of the skirt as needed.   With the fabric that I used there was very little stretching to match everything up.  Stitch the top to the skirt then press the seam allowance upward towards the top.

After pressing your seam allowance on the right side stitch close to the seam.

 This step marks the very last to the last.  Our dress is to the point of done.  I take a last look before hemming.
And here is the finished look.

Right now, I think I am certainly ready for the upcoming holiday events and you could be too.

The Review

Pattern Description:  Misses Dress with sleeve and skirt alternatives.

Pattern Sizing:  XSM- MED

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions and illustrations were so easy to follow,

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  The circle skirt.  It is so flirty and girly.

Fabric Used:  Double Knit

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:   I added and extra in to the skirt to make it longer.  I also did a FBA (full bust adjustment) to the bodice.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, Yes.


Conclusion:   This was an easy pattern.  I think that it was easy to make the alterations that I needed to make it fit me and I believe that it could be altered even further with some imagination.  I like the use of the double knit fabric which give room for stretching and our own personal flaws.  The 2 things that I didn't like was 1- the extremely big collar.  I made an alternative for this pattern, but felt that I should at least complete the original first to see if I liked it.  2- The short skirt.  The pattern has the skirt measured at 13".  For me, that was extremely too short for a dress, but kind of good for a tunic.  I didn't want a tunic, so I added to the length.  Once I had completed my dress, I liked the end results.  I believe that there are many different ways to make and style this dress. blouse, pattern and it is well worth a try.  I look forward to doing this one again with my own twist.

Well, I hope you enjoyed today's post.  Until next time.

Lots of Love
Dellia